Ask your average American to name a Scottish city, and chances are they'll only say Glasgow if they can name a second city after Edinburgh. And for a long time, in fact, Glasgow was known as just that--the Second City (although in those days, the commercial, industrialized city was being compared to London, not its picturesque Scottish neighbor).
But Glasgow is second no more. It's outgrown trying to compete with much larger London, and it's also outgrown a gritty, downtrodden phase it went through in the latter part of the 20th century. Today Glasgow stands on its own as Scotland's largest city and its cultural capital. It's even got a new nickname: Just call it the Friendly City.
No, really. Even within their own country, Glaswegians are known as an outstandingly friendly bunch. While the city has many points of interest to attract visitors, it's also possible that some of the more memorable moments of your stay in the city will involve pints shared with new friends at a pub.
Glasgow is also an ancient city known for its attachment to its history. Not much survives from its medieval period, but it's there if you look hard enough. The main attraction is the 5th-century tomb of St. Mungo, who built the original cathedral that the town rose up around. The tomb itself rests inside the current incarnation of Glasgow Cathedral, most of which was built around the tomb in the 14th century.
It’s the city's Victorian history that shines brightest in Glasgow. It's been called the "greatest surviving example of a Victorian city," and it still has some of the most consistently attractive architecture in Europe. You can get a glimpse of the darker side of the city's Victorian heritage by visiting the Tenement House, a perfectly preserved relic of the industrial days when peasants poured out of the highlands and into the rapidly growing city to seek their fortunes. For a rosier picture of life at the end of the 19th century, the neighborhoods to the west and south of the city center are still full of glorious Victorian architecture.
Speaking of architecture, art lovers--especially art nouveau lovers--also should not miss a visit to the Glasgow School of Art building, a masterpiece of the architect Charles Rennie Macintosh. His handiwork is all over the city. Another standout is his Lighthouse, now used as Scotland's Centre for Architecture, Design and the City. Parts of Macintosh's own home have been reconstructed by the Hunterian Art Gallery, and art buffs shouldn't miss this, either.
As the current home of the Scottish Opera, Scottish Ballet, and the Royal Scottish National Orchestra, Glasgow is also a center for culture. Museums are first-class--one, the Burrell Collection, is Glasgow's top tourist draw. But don't let that word "tourist" scare you away. The crowds are onto something here, as the wide-ranging installation, once the private collection of industrialist Sir William Burrell, is spectacular. Tapestries, porcelain, impressionist paintings, and more all reside here in a building that is a work of art in itself.•
